At Paris Fashion Week, Valentino Dazzles in Black While McGirr Debuts with McQueen – Sky Bulletin

In the opulent surroundings of an 18th-century Parisian townhouse, Valentino’s recent fashion outing unfolded, a stunning tribute to the color black. Enveloped by shimmering crystal chandeliers, the monochrome collection showcased diverse textures and profound inspirations ranging from French artist and “master of black” Pierre Soulages

Contrastingly, in a frigid and stark industrial space strewn with defunct railway tracks, spectators of Alexander McQueen’s show nestled under blankets, teeming with expectation. This was no ordinary presentation; it represented the inaugural work of Sean McGirr, the fashion house’s newly appointed creative director, tasked with ushering in a new era.

Highlights from the fall-winter ready-to-wear collections include:

VALENTINO’S STUDY IN BLACK

Pierpaolo Piccioli, Valentino’s discerning designer, took upon black as a canvas—an initial backdrop that “could move while searching for lights around, to absorb and reflect them.”

Piccioli was captivated by the hue’s intrinsic oppositions: it signifies uniformity and individualism, sobriety and exuberance, absorbing light yet devoid of it, reminiscent of the recently departed Soulages.

Complex all-black ensembles floated by seamlessly blending daywear into evening allure thanks to the color’s inherent magnetism. Modern twists on quintessential Valentino outfits were evident—a voluminous black rosette on a sleeve, layers of silk coyly revealing skin, or sporty A-line skirts peeking out beneath ruffled tubes.

Feathers, leather, sequins, and lace woven throughout the collection added textural depth but came close to monochrome redundancy, a common pitfall for shows of singular color themes. However, the cavalcade of elegant gowns concluding the event proved otherwise, particularly a diaphanous chiffon floor-length dress adorned with black bauble embellishments, reminiscent of a scattered celestial array.

A NEW CHAPTER FOR ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

With eyes closely watching, Sean McGirr, the relatively nascent 35-year-old from Dublin, stood to present his interpretation of the brand after the departure of Sarah Burton, who woven her narrative through McQueen’s edgy romantic style.

Dubbed “Rough opulence,” McGirr grounded his first foray into the essence of Alexander McQueen: Gothic allure, provocative undertones, a salute to historical fashion, and the label’s signature dramatic tailoring.

The show began with models clad in fiercely shaped black laminated dresses, a motif of constraint that repeated throughout his pieces, mirrored in the winding cords of denim and imposing leather boots and coats reminiscent of equine forms.

While certain designs appeared somewhat obvious with their historic references and bulky textures, McGirr’s inaugural collection shimmered with daring yet retained a cautious tone. It may have benefited from a less high-pressure, more intimate showcase.

Amid the collection’s contemplative tones, McGirr managed to inject a layer of exuberance, particularly with Enya’s lilting “Sail Away” permeating the atmosphere, mirroring a hopeful current that resonated within his playful designs.